The Crowd-Haters Guide to Loving Venice

I almost didn’t go to Venice. Everyone I asked seemed to have a very strongΒ feeling about it. Someone would tell me how filthy and smelly and crowded it is and I’d decide in a huff that, fuck it, it’s not worth the effort because I hate crowds and also smells. And then someone else would tell me how romantic it is, how beautiful and special and magical, and so, in the end I went.